If you're only in Chiang Mai for a short amount of time and want to do a self-guided tour of some of the best local food, then follow this guide to the highlights of Chiang Mai.
Kai yang (grilled chicken), som tam (papaya salad) & khao niao (sticky rice) @ Kai Yang Wichian Buri Soi 11, Som Tam Udon or Cherng Doi
Papaya salad (som tam / som tum) is apparently the most eaten dish in all of Thailand. It's my most eaten Thai dish too. The combination of grilled chicken, papaya salad and sticky rice is very common and originates from Laos and northern Thailand. It's incredible and I could (and sometimes do) eat it every day.
Kai Yang Wichian Buri Soi 11 doesn't really have a name but you'll see the smoke coming from the grilled chicken before you arrive. I get half a grilled chicken, papaya salad and sticky rice (125B). Make sure you get the chilli sauce! It's very basic, they don't really speak English but it's one of my favourite places for lunch.
Som Tam Udon is one of the most popular restaurants for the combo. It's huge, usually full of locals and there are plenty of versions of papaya salad to choose from (including vegan) along with BBQ meats and fish. The chicken legs and thighs are delicious and massive.
Cherng Doi is known for its crispy chicken. After repeated visits, my order (when hungry) is 1 crispy chicken, 2 papaya salads (2 chillies per salad, no dried shrimp), 1 or 2 sticky rice and maybe finish with coconut ice cream (save a bit of sticky rice to go with it). Sometimes the papaya salad takes longer to arrive than the chicken so it might be worth asking for the chicken to be cooked after.
Khao Soi @ Khao Soi Samer Jai or Kao Soy Nimman or Khao Soi Mae Sai or Khao Soi Khun Yai
Khao Soi is probably the most iconic dish of Chiang Mai and I made it my mission to try to find the best in the city. For a more in-depth guide, read my dedicated article searching for the best Khao Soi in Chiang Mai.
Northern Thai Cuisine @ TongTemToh, Kinlum Kindee, Huen Muan Jai, Huen Phen or Sorn Chan Chiang Mai Food
Other than Khao Soi, the north is also famous for Sai Ua (Chiang Mai sausage), Nam Prik Noom (a roasted chilli dip), Gaeng Hung Lay (pork curry), Tam Khanun (young jackfruit salad) and sticky rice. I recommend trying all of them, especially if you're in a group.
Stewed Pork & Rice @ Chang Phueak (The Cowboy Hat Lady)
Possibly the most famous cook in Northern Thailand, you will always find her by the north gate of the old city, wearing her signature cowboy hat. Having been featured in countless food shows, it's always very busy but still delicious and cheap!
Beer
Bottles of Singha, Leo & Chang are usually around 50-100B. Beer Lao is sometimes available but it's more expensive. There's a small craft beer scene, although it's heavily restricted by the alcohol laws meaning that even "local" craft beer is actually brewed abroad and is therefore subject to Thailand's huge import tax. Red Truck Red Ale (named after the famous songthaew) is my favourite of these which you can get for 150B per bottle at some places but they're usually around 200B.
And if you have time...
Mango Sticky Rice @ Best Mango Sticky Rice
As you might have noticed by now, sticky rice is a big deal in the north and it's also part of my favourite Thai dessert. You can get it at every night market but beware that some stalls will actually only give you half a mango. Best Mango Sticky Rice has a confident name and although I'm not sure it's the very best, it is a convenient location and very tasty.
Burmese Cuisine @ Nong Bee's or The Swan
It's not fully local but it's still part of the culture here as Chiang Mai is so close to Myanmar and has a shared history. The Burmese food I've had in Chiang Mai was actually better than everything I ate in Myanmar. The tea-leaf salad and curry (very similar to the northern Thai pork curry) are my favourites.