Travel like a local

Ai Marmi


"Its real name is Panattoni, but everyone calls it 'Ai Marmi' (the marble slabs) after the tables, or for the same reason 'l’Obitorio' (the morgue). It’s open late, and offers the best pizza romana (thin, charred, crispy round pizza) in Trastevere – Rome’s answer to the Rive Gauche. It’s open late (evenings only, ‘til 2am) and one of my two favourite eateries in a beautiful area, great to wander round of an evening, the other being the inimitable Da Enzo, one of Rome’s most perfect trattorie.

I particularly like its typicality – busy, hectic, loud, fast, brash and delicious – look out for the mama controlling the action from a podium-type till – waiters run payments and change to and from her, but she’s the true matron, and the only one trusted to count the cash. Order filetti di baccalà (fried salt cod) and supplì (tomato-rice & mozzarella croquettes) to start, and a simple pizza (margherita or fiori e salsiccia – courgette blossoms & sausage – as a main)" - Evening Standard